Israel Segal wants me to give my naturally frizzy hair a big ol’ hug

My second boy Mama Guru is quite a handsome devil, right? Not that I want to objectify him, because he’s totally smart, too. So smart that he’s developed a new line — Free Your Mane — specifically targeted to black hair. It’s healthy, eco-conscious and sustainable in its approach to the specific needs of black women and their tot-lets — a real first. As the proud adoptive papa of (adorable) African American twins, and a guy with wild, unruly locks of his own, Israel has first-hand knowledge about handling hyper-curly hair. And in creating his line, he knew what he didn’t want: the harsh chemicals typically found in products for this hair type.

Before we dive in, I want to clue you in to something really great: Through his LA-based company, Nola Industries, Israel has created a nonprofit division dubbed SE%EN, which earmarks seven percent of profits for the African American community. “We’ll partner with the most effective existing organizations that benefit the health, education and empowerment needs of the community,” he says. “As a company we strive to be a model for other small businesses and SE%EN is at the core of this mission. I really wanted to keep this in the US. I feel it’s important to act locally, like looking to the foster system in my own community when we chose to expand our family.”

Okay, let’s get to the mama-stuff:

Dana: What are some of the biggest mistakes women make in trying to care for, and style, black hair? What can they do to reverse that damage?

Israel: One of the most important things women can do to celebrate and maintain black hair is to go easier on processing with harsh chemicals and thermal styling. All those elements tend to dry out hair, so then we overcompensate by styling with greasy products that contain mineral oil and petrolatum, which is basically the waste from the petroleum industry. Those products provide a quick fix that only contributes to the long-term consequences of over-processing.

Also, I would suggest choosing your heat tools wisely. Get the best you can afford, ones that allow you to really regulate the temperature. If you’re going to utilize chemicals and thermal tools please take extra care of your hair by using an intensive moisture treatment at least once a week, like Free Your Mane Intensive Hydrating Masque. Go ahead and leave it in overnight. It’ll protect your hair without weighing it down. In the end it’s all about balance.

Dana: In creating your line, which harmful ingredients did you most want to avoid?

Israel: As a parent, it was important to me that the Free Your Mane products didn’t sacrifice health for beauty’s sake. I banished all petroleum products, parabens, sulfates and phthalates. Did you know that they find high concentrations of phthalates in breast cancer tumors? That’s an unacceptable price to pay for beauty. Sulfate use is epidemic too. Sure the sulfates lather up nicely, but they also strip your hair and skin of natural oils, shorten the life of your hair color and mimic hormones in your body. I guarantee you’ll find them in 98% of shampoos. Save them to degrease your car engine, not your skin!

Dana: Tell us about your children — and their hair!  At what point did you start to flip out and decide you simply had to create the line? How long did it take?

Israel: We adopted our kids through the County of Los Angeles – Ziggy and Nola, fraternal twins born six weeks early. In order to adopt through the county here, you take 60 hours of classes, get fingerprinted, have home studies where they go through your drawers and make you lock up your vitamins! By the time the kids arrived in my home, I was aware — with every cell of my being — of what a great privilege it is to nurture an innocent, trusting being.

As Ziggy and Nola grew, I was feeding them organic everything — these kids were definitely eating healthier than I was! So when hair care became an issue it seemed anathema to put chemicals on their skin that seemed more appropriate for my kitchen floor. Which is not to say that there were not a lot of advertised ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ products out there – it’s just that on closer inspection many turned out to be comprised of just one or two organic products followed by a litany of fillers. The product lines that were totally natural were ineffective at best. At worst they were rancid or overly-fragranced. Yuck.

I didn’t understand: Why hadn’t someone taken the best of cosmetic chemistry and combined it with wonderful oils like baobab and natural anti-oxidants like pomegranate seed? That’s when it hit me: This was my “aha moment,” my calling. I began reading books by Anita Roddick, who founded The Body Shop, and learning about social and corporate responsibility. I began to expand my world-view.

Then I had to find the best chemist, the best perfumer. I discovered my passion for fragrance along the way and I’m very proud of our scent. I call it Bois-Tabac. It’s earthy and exotic and it sits on the fence between the feminine and masculine (most of the women I talked to wear their husband’s or boyfriend’s fragrance).

Then there was the long process of testing everything, both at home and in the professional arena. I didn’t want just another ‘okay’ line — it had to be outstanding. All in all it took me three years from conception to market. And all of it made me really happy. I’d heard people say how fulfilling it is working on something you believe in and I finally understand that firsthand.

Dana: Do you have any time-saving tips for your Free Your Mane ladies – both for themselves and for getting their kids out the door quickly in the morning?

Israel: All the Moms I know (and I include myself in that category!) are constantly on the go. My daughter Nola asked me recently why I didn’t work as much as Papa because she sees him leave for work, whereas I tend to work from home and be around her and her brother more. I gave her a feminist rant that would’ve burned your ears!

One of my big issues with Nola and Ziggy’s hair was the ‘day after’ situation. I’d style their hair beautifully, and then the next day – after just one night of sleep – everything would be chaos.  All the black women out there will know what I’m talking about. It’s just not plausible to put in the time to totally restyle black hair every day! That’s why I created the Reviving Spray. It’s a lifesaver if you and your children have an active lifestyle because it gives you a fresh start without starting over; you can use it to reactivate your product the day after without adding more and weighing down your hair. It provides moisture without adding frizz and plumps up curls. For straighter-haired girls it’s like a beach spray, providing perfect tousle.

For other time savers, I’d say if your hair is straight, always wrap it at night or pin curl. A braid set with Restorative Oil and Reviving Spray will last all week. Try the pomade on dry or damp hair to create a slick sleek pony tail or chignon. Wrap it up the night before with a silk or satin scarf and you’re ready in no time.

And if you don’t wrap make sure you sleep on a satin pillow. It makes a big difference.

Dana: Last question, but it’s a biggie: Do you wish everyone on the planet — including frizzy me — would just embrace their natural texture?

Israel: It does makes me sad when women and girls here in America reject the natural texture of their hair and put so much energy into working against it. I spent some time working in Paris and it seemed to me that French women celebrate themselves by working with what they have rather than against it. In America it seems like we are always trying to dumb down our looks by grasping for some flavorless middle ground.

Media is so immediately pervasive in our lives. I had to explain to Nola when she was just five that the Béyonce hair she coveted was store-bought, like her Barbie wig head. If a few more pop icons would free their manes, our daughters might begin to follow their lead. Did you know the origins of ‘good and bad’ hair have their roots in slavery? The better the hair the closer you got to live to the plantation because it indicated intermixing and favor with the master?

I like to say there’s no such thing as “bad hair,” just “bad product.” If you’ve got hair on your head then it’s ‘good’! The wonderful thing about black hair is that it’s so versatile. And the bottom line is Free Your Mane products work beautifully on natural and processed hair. I just don’t want women to feel like relaxed hair is their only option, especially in a professional environment.

We need to deprogram the beauty myth and standard. Natural hair texture is gorgeous. Know it! Claim it! Wear your hair the way that makes you the happiest. If you free your mane, your mind and your soul will follow.

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